Why don’t all waiters get their just desserts?
Do waiters in mid-priced restaurants work less than those at high-end ones? If not, shouldn’t their tips be the same (in absolute terms)?
I can see where you’re coming from: a 10 per cent tip on a £20 meal is less than a 10 per cent tip on a £100 meal. If it’s the same waiter doing the same job, shouldn’t the tip be, say, £5 for each meal – a 25 per cent tip in one case and a 5 per cent tip in the other?
This is not what happens. According to a survey by the economist Ofer Azar, the absolute size of tips in the US is overwhelmingly dependent on the size of the bill. In Europe, formal service charges often replace tips and the FT’s restaurant insider, Nicholas Lander, tells me that such charges tend to be proportionate to the bill – or if anything, to be a higher percentage in the fanciest restaurants.
I am not sure the puzzle is quite as perplexing as you think, though. First, the connection between what the customer tips and what the waiter gets is far from straightforward. Waiters are not slaves: if tips are too low to attract them, then the restaurant owner will have to add a wage. And if a waiter can earn hundreds of pounds in tips at a top restaurant, the owner will be able to demand a share without running short of staff.
Second, high-priced restaurants tend to have fewer customers per waiter, to ensure attentive service. They receive higher tips, but fewer of them.
Despite these points, it is of course possible that waiters are paid more in better restaurants. But in a capitalist society, skilled workers expect to earn more. I suggest you sample the quality of service at El Bulli or the Fat Duck, and pop into Pizza Hut on the way home. Then tell me again that the waiters should earn the same at each place.
Also published at ft.com.